When seeking out these oils, look for seals and designations as helpful indications of quality. Denominazione d’Origine Protetta (DOP) in Italy, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in France and Denomination of Origin (DOP) throughout the European Union (EU) identify products produced, processed and prepared in regions known for expertise in that particular product. The California Olive Oil Council (COOC) and International Olive Council (IOC) certify and give their mark to quality extra-virgin olives oils, from California and the EU respectively, based on taste and quality.
Four of the six tasters preferred Spectrum Organic Extra-Virgin Olive Oil ($11/12.7 oz.) for its fruity olive flavor and well-balanced finish. We also tried a variety of artisanal oils. Comments on the flavors and aromas of the artisanal oils ran the gamut from "grassy, green and bitter" to "buttery with a green-apple finish." There were two that we liked best. L’Estornell Organic Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($33/25.3 oz.) is a well-balanced oil made from Arbequina olives, the variety used to make most oils from California and Northeast Spain. A lovely single-estate oil from Tuscany, Altomena Extra-Virgin Olive Oil ($18/8.45 oz.) is grassy and peppery with loads of olive flavor.
